Wine tasting in Mendoza: The joy of La Azul

According to Ruth and David, our insider wine experts and co-owners of Arista Wine Cellars in Edmonds, WA, wine retailers “Buy on bread and sell on cheese.” That’s because bread and crackers cleanse the palate best for tasting, but when it comes to serving and selling wine give ‘em cheese because the proteins in the dairy smooth out the flavors in wine and often make it more desirable.

Our Wildland Adventures Argentina tour group in the cavernous cellars of Salentine.

On this day we ate lots of bread and cheese and had the opportunity to contrast select wines in the Uco Valley from among the biggest producers in the region to one of the smallest. We start out at Salentine vineyards, at over 1 million bottles a year it is among the biggest producers. Then we compared their massive high tech tanks and expansive cask cellars  with the tiny garage bodega of La Azul one of the smallest producers  in the area where we made empanadas and sat down to dinner in their lovely family home.

Among all the vineyards we experienced in Mendoza, La Azul was my favorite. It is a personal, hands-on operation that arose after the founding family enterprise was passed down among several siblings and the youngest son, Ezequiel Fadel took up the enterprise to create his own little winery, a warm and simple producer of premium wines made onsite at his family’s home. At first we met Pablo, an old family friend who acts, looks and sounds as much a New Yorker as an Argentine. He and Ezequiel are childhood friends and since Pablo speaks perfect English and is a natural “MC” he acts as the public face of La Azul interacting with guests.

The garage bodega at La Azul...standing room only with
winemaker Ezequiel and his friend and spokesperson, Pablo.

A far cry from the smooth hired-hand factory tours and tasting of Salentine, Ezequiel is not only a hands on boutique wine producer, he’s a self-made Argentine with a long pony tail who hunts wild boar by hand every week with a knife and his pack of dogs. He has the massively long scar from his wrist all the way up his arm to show for it after his blade missed the mark one time.



Making bread for dinner on a food adventure in Argentina!

Most visitors to La Azul just come for tasting and some stay for lunch, but for small groups like ours Chef Jaime Baeza and his staff will plan a cooking lesson and private dinner. On this night of our tour of Argentina’s wine and gastronomy we presented each member of the group an embroidered apron that read “Wildland Adventures Argentina 2013” and proceeded to make a mess preparing flat bread and empanadas baked in the bodega’s clay oven.

Hand made empanadas...hmmmm!

Ezequiel had been standing in the background, but when he saw we were laughing so much and enjoying his wines he overcame his language trepidation and began to share more with us about his life in Mendoza, his wife and kids, his brother a famous Argentine filmmaker currently at the premier opening of his latest motion picture in France, and exuding pride for the wine he produces and loves to share with the world: “Having our own vineyards permits us an incredible control of the grapes quality and so on the wine. All this work finishes in each bottle that then will found you and will try you have a joy moment.”

One of my joy moments at La Azul on our
gastronomy and wine tour of Argentina.

Ezequiel was right, this night was a high ‘joy moment’ for us all. Perhaps it was the wine (he was so inspired by our appreciation that he broke out a few bottles—out of a total of 2,000 produced--of his 2009 Gran Reserva 65% Malbec and 35% Cabernet aged 2 years 30% in American oak and 70% French oak, then in the bottle for 1 ½ years), not to mention his bright eyes and gleaming smiles and Pablo’s robust enthusiasm. For sure it was also the incredible 4 course dinner including crispy zucchini with smoked salmon, pissa argula with prosciutto, empanadas, main course of grilled pork or beef steak or the most delicious mushroom risotto I’ve ever had, and a panqueque of dulce de leche for dessert. 

Winemaker and host, Ezequiel Fadel, with long hair tied up in back
breaks out the Gran Reserva with only 2,000 bottles produced.

Deliciously and joyfully plated in the kitchen at La Azul.

Beef steak entre.

Fried zucchini with smoked salmon appeitizer.

See more information about Wildland Adventures in Argentina and contact our expert program director: Kirsten Gardner kirsten@wildland.com

Read Ruta Arista's blog about this part of our adventure: New finds and four legged friends in Uco Valley

keeping it wild,

Kurt Kutay

Salta Cannine Photo Exhibition!

Traveling to Argentina and through the province of Salta I was struck by how many handsome and funny dogs there are. Everywhere we went many greeted us with smiles and ran alongside us, unless they were sleeping off a long night. So I started photographing them and here's an assortment of our friendly natives of Salta. 

"Oh you tourists, why bother with them?"

See other blogs of our Wines and Adventures tour of Argentina.

Keeping it wild,

Kurt Kutay

The Best Birthday Lunch in My Life!

This is what a birthday suit looks like
on a tour in Argentina.

“In all my 61 years I can say unequivocally without any doubt that this is the best meal I've ever had on my birthday!”

That’s how Duke described our lunch at Bodega Ruca Malen. And several of the rest of us might even rate this the best lunch in our lives all things considered: outdoor formal table setting with a sea of glasses and silver overlooking Cuyo de Lujan vineyards, beautiful sunny day with white billowy clouds over the Andes, exquisite 5 course tasting menu paired with the bodega’s wines, and exceptional table service including fun interactions with the young Chef Lucas at each course.




Warning: The following tasting menu may be hazardous to read if you are hungry or thisty!

Our Argentina gastronomy tour table setting at Ruca Malen bodega.

Two appetizers:
Small goat cheese truffle, dried chilli peppers and greens
Pairing: Yauquen Torrontes 2012 no oak.
Roasted beet terrine on smoked butternut squash cream
Pairing: Yauquen Bonarda 30% aged in oak for six months, refreshing and juicy in the mouth.

Chef Lucas announces each course with laughs and stories.

Starter:
Quartirolo cheese, crisp sausage and roasted carrots salad accompanied with quince and raspberry preserve.
Paring: Ruca Malen Malbec 2006 a 100% Malbec aged 12 months in 85% French and 15% American oak. After 7 years in the bottle it was in its prime to be uncorked. This course was the start of many subsequent conversations about fermentation in barrels, different kinds of oak, and how the barrels affect the wine on the palette.

Here’s a fun tip for any host how this medley of starters was presented. Chef Lucas explained the challenge of every chef is to explain to his assistants how he wants it presented on the plate. So, in this case Chef Lucas drew a diagram with the names of each item followed by arrows where he wanted them placed, photo copied them and taped them to the underside of the see-through cut glass individual platters. What a fun way to serve a delectable assortment of taste treats!

Here's one of many fun food and wine ideas we learned on our
gastronomy and wine tour of Argentina!

Principal Course:
Grilled steak accompanied with potatoes, tomatoes and onions, roasted with rosemary, raisin chimichurri, black olives and black pepper butter. The vegetarian option was a seasonally rich medley of roasted vegetables fresh from the farm.

A great combination of flavors cooked to perfection!

Pairing (two reds):
Ruca Malen Reserve 2010, 50% Malbec, 30% Cabernet, 20% Petit Verdo. Each of these wines are produced separately and aged for a period of 14 months in oak, 80% French and 20% American. The best barrls are selected, the blend is produced and aged in bottle for a year before going out on sale.
Kinien Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18 months in new oak barrels 90% French and 10% American.

Desert:
Slices of seasonal fruit accompanied by fresh raspberry sorbet dusted with black pepper.

The black pepper dusted over sorbet and fruit was a delightful surprise
to the palate.

Our Wildland Adventures Argentina tour group posses in the
vineyards after lunch at Ruca Malen.

David also had his birthday on our trip so Roger and his wife Marissa from Arista Wine Cellars had asked to see if we could go in together with them to find a bottle of David's favorite champagne as a birthday present from afar. That too will probably be a birthday David won't forget just becuase it was a busy travel day driving from the Uco Valley back to Mendoza, catching a flight to Salta, then driving 3 1/2 hours over a high pass to Cachi. 

 It wasn't until night fell that we found the right moment to sing happy birthday and present his bottle of Bollinger. We were driving through the mountains and made a roadside stop at a little cafe. The guides set up a lovely snack of cheese, salami, olives and bread. The birthday boy even found a birthday hat of a dried armadillo to pose for pictures. Perfect adornment for this former Texas boy!

David Arista's impromptu birthday suit was a dried armadillo he found at
our roadside stop.

See more information about our Wildland Adventures Argentina Travel Adventures.

Keeping it wild,

Kurt Kutay 

Romina Cortez sings her heart out!

Listen to this link: Romnia Cortez performs live at La Colina del Molinos

 

We always seek out local music on our Argentina tours and Romina
brought some of us to tears

I love Argentine music and even used to play in an Argentine folk group in college, so I couldn't wait until we went to our first pena. A pena in South America, especially in Argentina and Chile, is a cheap, popular venue where folk music is played and simple food and drink are served in a casual, friendly environ. Usually music is in the form of Nueva Canción, the kind of music popularised in the 60's and 70's by Chilean and Argentine musicians singing about social justice, the environment and grassroots culture.

Considering what attire to wear, Anne asked me what to expect at a pena so when I told her its a casual local cafe with live music and not to worry it wasn't enough detail for her to picture what she needed to know. As soon as we walked in the door of La Casona del Molino she said, "Oh, I get it!"  There were no other gringos in the big old colonial house with room after room filled with patrons sitting around on old wooden chairs and tables covered in empty wine bottles clinking glasses vibrating with chatter, laughter, and song. Local musicians come with guitars and drums in hand to take up their place in the corner of a room.

 

Romina Cortez and her three friends assembled themselves at a few other tables in the back room reserved for our group. Penas typically provide local faire so we ordered up a bunch of food to share: humitas are fresh corn masa wrapped in corn husk like a big tamale with cheese and pieces of sweet kernels that give them chewy consistency; empanadas filled with spicy beef; locro a hearty meaty local soup; pizza, and salad with fresh summer greens (beause it's still summer here). We select delicious Torrontes whites and various red blends that we share with our jovial house musicians.

Before we know it Romina is strumming her guitar with a classical Argentine rhythm and her companion knocks out a 3/4 beaton his big bon bon cowhide drum. Then she sang, so passionate, so deep, so loud and powerful it brought some of us to tears and most didn't even need to understand the lyrics to feel it was pura vida! One of Romina's friends at her table was a professional guide who explained what each song was about so we would know the story of her laments such as one song about a man in love with two women speaking with his heart asking why his heart was doing this to him. Another song was about the plight of protecting the endangered vicuñas on the altiplano of the high Andes.


Not many Americans know about Salta--YET--so when our Wildland Adventures Argentina tour group arrived at the pena we were greeted by my friend, Fernando Escudero, Director of Tourism Promotion for the Salta region. This is his favorite haunt as it is for many local Saltenos.

That evening a good friend and local resident, Fernando Escudero Director of Tourism Promotion for the State of Salta showed up to share afew words about the exciting new developments he is spearheading for adventure travel in northwest Argentina. He gave us all lovely picture books of Salta and at the end of this wild night of Salteno culture everyone was asking Romina to sign their books as a wonderful memory. And truly, we may very well have be party to a historical musical event sitting in the same small room of a local pena with a rising star of Argentine music.


Obviously, Anne and Rosemarie had a good time on this night of our Argentina wine tour!

 

Like the future rock star her friends expect her to be, Romina signed copies of our Salta photo book for everyone in our Argentina tour group.

Link: Romnia Cortez performs live at La Colina del Molinos

 

We always include a visit to a pena on our Argentina Wines and Adventures itinerary.

"Just how do they get those aromas into the wine?"

Belasco de Baquedano is a big producer of Mendoza appellation.

After our first amazing and informative day visiting Bonfanti we had another tasting at the Belasco de Baquedano, a very large producer which also presents the “Hall of Aromas” where 46 individual varietal aromas are contained in clear acrylic containers. It’s all those distinctive aromas that we use to describe the nose of the wine. 

Entering the "Hall of Aromas".

We learned there are three levels of aromas: 1) Primary aromas actually come from the raw material itself specific to each varietal; 2) Secondary aromas are produced by the yeasts during fermentation; 3) Tertiary aromas appear during ageing and also when the wine reposes in the bottle. Among the 46 aromas were musk, violet, grass, hay, banana, wood, thyme, truffle and more. Now, if I can only remember them next time I go to taste the wines at Artista Wine Cellars next Saturday in Edmonds, WA!  



David Arista tests his professional nose
at the Hall of Aromas.

Walking out of the Hall of Aromas Dick caught Ruth off guard when he asked her seriously, “So, just how do they get those aromas into the wine?” Ruth immediately started thinking, now how am I going to break it to Dick that they don’t really put these aromas into the juice. Once he knew he had her going he just gave her a sly smile.

Argentina wine tasting at Belasco de Baquedano. 

Keeping wild,

Kurt Kutay
Want to experience Argentina? Take a look at our trips to Argentina

Be informed. Read the label.

Our first Argentina wine tour tasting was one of the most informed enoteca experiences I've ever had. We started at the Bonfanti family vineyard walking through the vines with Alejandro Bonfandi, one of two sons who own and operate their estate winery. Roberto, their father, manages the vineyard; Sebastian, one of the sons is the winemaker; and Alejandro runs the business side. Familia Bonfanti is a boutique micro-winery located in the Lujan de Cuyo in the upper Mendoza Valley. The estate dates back to 1915 when their Italian grandfather planted the first vineyard to Malbec and in 2005 they completed their state of the art micro winery.  Situated on a beautiful property olive trees are intermingled in the vineyards, colorful red roses bloom at the end of trellised vines with views of the Andes in the stunning blue sky on the horizon.


We're ready to help harvest grapes on our Argentina wine tour
they're not quite ready. Pray for no rain!

On this trip we are visiting boutique vintners who produce just a few thousand bottles per year and several other well known more commercial brands that produce over a million bottles. A main difference among the boutique vintners such as Bonfanti is harvest and production is done by hand on the estate. So Alejandro proudly started our visit in the vines then through the production facilities where grapes are treated gently and hand stirred in the fermentation tanks, then into the cellar to see the casks, and finally the tasting room.

The skin on these malbec grapes are just about ready for harvest.

He is so knowledgeable, friendly and well-spoken, open to any questions, especially this bing our first estate visit. He obviously became more engaged in the conversation facilitated by queries and demonstrations in the field from David and Ruth who have been on many professional wine maker tours. Harvent has just begun in Mendoza and the Bonfanti family is hoping to reap the plump purple grapes hanging off the vine next week. It’s a great opportunity for us to taste different varietals on the vine, break open the grapes to assess their structure, the juice and pulp, and most importantly the skin that contains the tannins, color and flavors that make up the essence of the wine.

Alejandro's final message was be informed and read the label
to pick your favorite wines!

Anticipation is in the air in Mendoza. These are the days when the winemakers are in the fields everyday using their taste buds and high tech instruments to measure sugar content, acidity and other factors to determine the prime moment when the grapes are to be taken off the vine. Despite all the technical considerations and careful expert assessment by the winemaker, Alejandro looked up to the heavens and reminded us that estate winemakers are just like farmers anywhere, “We get just one salary per year and it totally depends on the skies above.”

Back in the tasting room, Alejandro insisted that we not pick our bottled wines at the store by the name of the grape, but that we learn to carefully read the technical details provided on the label and ask the retail wine seller for further details. He introduced us to many of these factors all of which contribute to the character and taste of every bottle. After leaving Bonfanti we were well equipped to better assess all the wines we would taste not only by how they looked and tasted, but by considering the site where the grapes were grown including the soil type, alcoholic content, the mix of varietals, the conditions at harvest for that vintage, time in oak and if it was French or American oak.

Roses glorify the vineyards and serve as the canary in the coal mine by
giving farmers an early warning if a fungus is on site as it shows up first on the
rose petals in which case growers react quickly to quash the outbreak.

keeping it wild,

Kurt Kutay

Want to travel to Argentina? Check out Wildland Adventures trips to Argentina

Mendoza a la boca!

As soon as we arrived in Mendoza we hit the ground tasting and dining.

First up was dinner at Francis Mallman’s prestigious 1884 Restaurant in a beautiful old winery outside of town. Having a long career in the gourmet food industry, he returned the elemental roots of Argentine cooking with fire in the outdoors now acclaimed on his gourmet TV show and renown for several of Argentina’s best restaurants.  The first night out of the city in the outdoor courtyard of 1882 inspired in-the-moment glee from Ruth, “Dining outside in the candlelight with grass underfoot and the southern constellations shimmering overhead, we surely have arrived in Argentina!”  

Table setting at 1882 Restaurant.

Anne and Julie with fresh empanadas.

The constellation of plates and wines were equally stunning: goat and beef steaks delivered to our table just steps from the open fire was washed down with aromatic Malbecs in poured in big glasses. We’re now into the Argentine dining groove having been seated for dinner at 10 PM and closing out our first summer’s eve in Mendoza arriving at our colonial hacienda at 1 AM.  

Asador (chef) setting up our plates.

 We awoke the next morning in the peaceable environs of Club Tapiz surrounded by vineyards everywhere. Argentines are able to dine, drink and hang out together late into the night because siestas are built into daily life here. As tourists there’s too much to see and do every day (and on this trip that means much drinking and eating) so we’re at a bit of a disadvantage because we’re not about to take a siesta in the middle of the day on a 13-day tour of Argentina. But, at least on this Wildland Adventure we don’t get started before 9 AM, so I took the opportunity to go for a run down vineyard backroads through rows upon rows of chardonnay and malbec grapes.



Ruth took a quick cat nap after dinner in the garden of 1884 the
first night of our Argentina tour.

keeping it wild,

Kurt Kutay

Want travel to Argentina? Take a look at our trips to Argentina

Sultry Tango and Saucy Malbec

Tango dancers in San Telmo market.

We kicked off our Wines and Adventures tour of Argentina at the La Cava wine tasting room just a few blocks up from our hotel for a tasting of three distinct Argentine wines with an excellent presentation by a young well-informed sommelier highlighting the four principal wine producing regions of the country: 1) the North in the province of Salta, 2) Patagonia, 3) the Cuyo region (northern valley of Mendoza) and 4) the Uco Valley (south of Mendoza). We looked at the big picture of geography, geology and the corresponding influence of climate, especially how the Andes blocks moisture coming from the Pacific across Chile that creates the dry and harsh conditions combined with infertile soils creating ideal wine producing conditions. I can tell already instead of birding list, on this trip we’re going to need a wine tasting list, and Ruth is going to do her best to keep track as we travel from Buenos Aires to Mendoza and Salta. 

We enjoyed great tango music on the street and in a club.

Our first late night in the city we sauntered up the street from our hotel in the historic San Telmo district to see the La Querandi tango show. It’s a small theatre setting presenting a retrospective of the sultry dance that started in the 1880’s among lower-class immigrant men who cavorted waitresses and prostitutes in cafes and bordellos. The troupe of tangueros changed their outfits throughout the night depicting the evolution of tango. What made this show more authentic than most was the live performance of classical male and female singers accompanied by highly accomplished musicians including a lead piano player from a famous lineage of tango performers.  

We stay in San Telmo at the start of our Argentina tour because we can meet up with our local city guide Alejandra at the Moreno Hotel for a 2 hour walk starting at the Plaza de Mayo. This is ground zero for the city’s protests so the colorful graffiti calling for benefits of the veterans of the Falkland War, and brightly painted headscarves of the ‘mothers of the disappeared’ gives us a chance to talk about Argentina’s history from independence to social justice.  

Tapas and wine on our tour of Buenos Aires

We walk through the Montserrat neighborhood and up the cobblestone streets into the heart of Sal Telmo, one of the city’s most charming historic districts. Alejandra took us up side streets to observe all the architectural styles from throughout the centuries, especially the historically rich barrio with beautifully preserved colonial mansions and spectacular graffiti. Then we were set free to walk up Defensa Street which is closed to vehicles for the Sunday San Telmo market filled with musicians, tango dancers and artisan stands full of original handcrafts and colorful antiques. We all found our way to Sagardi, a lively restaurant displaying luscious Basque-style tapas complimented by an endless list of Argentine wines.