Interloping in Interlaken

If Switzerland is the original adventure travel destination as Swiss Tourism rightfully declares, then Interlaken-Jungfrau is where adventure was born. Today, it is the hub of adventure activities where you can find just about every activity on land, water and in the air from paragliding (tandem with a pilot), hiking and climbing, mountain biking or easy electric powered "e-bikes" on bike paths, rafting and boat trips, and Segway tours, and of course there's skiing and winter sports of every sort in the snow. Here is also one of the world's classic mountain adventure excursions: the Jungfraujoch train to the top of Europe.

It may be a popular tourist attraction, but this part of the Berner Oberland has some of the most impressive mountain scenery, centered around the triple peaks of the Eiger (3,970m/13,025ft), the Monch (4,099m/13,448ft) and the Jungfrau (4,158m/13,642ft). A network of rail and cable-car routes from the town of Interlaken takes visitors to trail heads and mountain peaks. An amazing feat of construction and a wild day of adventure for anyone—and I pretty much mean anyone—who has not been mountain climbing and summited a high massif is the Jungfrau train—the highest train in Europe. It's busy and it gets crowded, but we start out on the first departure of the day to get a step ahead of the tourists.

We met up with Herr Martin Gertsch, a Jungfrau trekking and mountain guide who was born in Wengen. For his 14th birthday his father took him to the summit of the Jungfrau, which is not a train ride, but requires technical mountain climbing starting out from the highest mountain hut in the dark of the early morning. Like so many guides in this region, Martin is not only skilled and confident, but is a joy to spend time with. He lived in upstate New York where he raised a family and was in the forefront of the organic food movement in the 1990's, working with leading food companies, conservation organizations, and social venture networks, until he decided to get out of the business world of North America to return to a more peaceful and less stressful life in the Alps. He lives in the incredibly beautiful village of Wengen, perched on green pastures high up in the Alps only accessible on foot or by cogwheel mountain train.

A Swiss guy somewhere along the way told us, "There is no distance in Switzerland." And, while the trains and buses get us from one side of the country to another cutting down the sense of distance, here in the Jungfrau the train to the sky also cuts down the heights of the peaks in the Alps! 100 years ago, alpine enthusiasts and business magnates interested in making one of the most iconic massifs of Switzerland available to visitors from around the world, hired mostly Italian laborers who worked for 19 years to construct this system of tracks tunneling through solid rock up steep mountain faces to a saddle just below the peaks.

The day-long circuit starts in the valley bottom of Lauterbrunnen (which looks like Yosemite Valley with waterfalls everywhere cascading over high limestone rock faces deep into the lush green valley), ascends along the via Cook to Kleine Scheidegg at the foot of Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau where many hiking trails start, eventually reaching rock faces of the high peaks and then back down another route through high valleys and alpine meadows eventually reaching the small town of Grindelwald: It's all a spectacular day of adventure! At the top of Jungfrau, which was Matt Lauer's favorite place ever on his "Where in the world is Matt Lauer" segment on the today show, there are two restaurants, the Ice Palace, the Sphinx observation  hall, and  more providing many interpretive displays, fun activities and 360 degree views of the Alps. It was raining a foggy when we started out, but the cogwheel trains took us above the cloud ceiling into a world of warm bring sunshine and glistening glaciers.

Struggling a bit with high altitude, we managed to make the hour long hike from the observation hall to the mountain hut higher up near the base of the Monch where ski mountaineers and climbers where also gathering for lunch. Like a good Swiss alpine trekker, Martin was able to down a hearty bowl of sausage and a stein of beer for lunch! Also, inside the observation tower some guy managed to bring his Leonberger dog up the mountain--it was probably the biggest dog I have ever seen. All part of a day of adventure in Switzerland.

Walks and Wines of Geneva Region, Switzerland

We started our journey of Switzerland walking and "wining" our way through the more urbane French-speaking region of Lake Geneva.  In a well planned and orchestrated itinerary, we moved easily through the countryside from Geneva, to Lausanne and Montreux  by train, boat, walking and bicycle. Sharing 95% of its borders with France, the seat of many international organizations, and a favorite respite and creative hangout for Freddy Mecury, Phil Collins, David Bowie, Audrey Hepburn, and many other celebrities and lesser known sophisticates, the Geneva region has it all.

We walked the cobblestone streets of the old towns and hit several farmer's markets where we stocked up on cheese, olives, wine and fresh baked goods for our afternoon appetizers or lunches on the train. Historically, Geneva was a strategic transport and trade route used by the Romans, and later controled by the Savoys who built a series of baronies and castellanies throughout this part of Switzerland including the Bernese Oberland and Valais regions, so there are impressive watchtowers and castles, especially the Chillon Castle in Montreux (but get there early in the high season summer months).

My favorite day in the area was walking through small villages and hiking amongst the trails in the terraced vineyards of Lavaux, a UNESCO World Heritage Site originally excavated and built by hand by monks who settled here 1,000 years ago.  Accompanied by local guide Matthew Richards, we arranged for our luggage to be transported from Lausanne to Montreux and set out to traverse the hilly terrain of cobblestone streets, steep stairways and meandering small roads accessed only by the vintners to work their fields. Walking from Epesses to Chexbres, there are interspersed vineyards for wine tasting and small gourmet restaurants along the way.

We had an appointment to visit Mr. Patrick Fonjallaz at his multi-generational estate in Epesses where we tasted three wines, then walked on for lunch at the Baron Tavernier in Chexbres, both sites chosen for their quality wine and dishes, as well as spectacular sunny views overlooking green vineyards, the deep blue Lake Geneva, and the snow-covered peaks of the French Alps. Matthew was really a great guide, the Swiss-born son of a British mountain climber who, like many who started tourism here, came to climb the peaks. Matthew is a dad now, and prefers leading trekking and cultural walking tours throughout Geneva and especially in Lavaux.

An award to a son who exemplifies a sensitivity and mindfulness to other cultures...

We came to Switzerland to explore this beautiful and diverse country, and to attend our son's college commencement after four years at Franklin College in Lugano. Tarek Kenton Kutay, and his mate Juan Diego Martinez Mendiola, earned a special award for students whose actions best exemplify "...a sensitivity and mindfulness to other cultures and whose behavior has been instrumental in helping the community gain awareness of cultural issues." Thank you to all teachers, friends, families and guides throughout the world who have shared our travel experiences, helped our family grow and learn, and who have known and supported Tarek. It was a proud day at the Franklin College special graduate awards ceremony.

Watch presentation of Gerta Holman Award to Diego Mendiola and Tarek Kutay (6 min): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhM2qB_SKho

In her presentation about Tarek the Dean of Students commented:

....he has demonstrated his commitment to learning and growing in his own identity as a man as well as learning about the perspective of other men around the world. He has engaged in dialogue about what masculinity looks like as an American and actively sought an understanding about what masculinity looks like in other cultures across the world....
...there is no other person that better represents the inner-cultural mission of Franklin College than Tarek Kutay....
...He has gone above and beyond demonstrating his conviction to supporting new students and providing a successful Franklin experience for first year students from around the world....
...He has shown his passion for global citizenship, intercultural communication and social justice. His focus during conversations at "See the Change" conference on social justice revolved around social change but on a global scale from peoples of all cultures and nations....
...In addition to his co-curricular endeavors he is an impeccable student, his  work on global social movement with Professor Vogalar is an advanced academic perspective in an emerging and continuing global trend with serious social implications.
...He takes his studies seriously; he focuses on issues and topics that he's passionate about pursuing in the future for his professional career. On top of the impressive list leadership responsibilities and academic achievements, he somehow manages to have a fulfilling personal life full of friends, fun and travel.
...He is a true inner-culturalist, a true diplomat, and a true global citizen. There is no other person that better represents the inner-cultural mission of Franklin College than Tarek Kutay.

Tarek receives his diploma: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uk3UdiZ-kus&feature=youtu.be
Alessio receives his diploma: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eYzwylJezWA&feature=youtu.be 

Switzerland Through The Front Door

Traveling through "the front door" of Switzerland we've been staying in the finest 5* hotels, but it's not just about the luxe, it's literally a window into the history, the landscape and the finest people who love to share their beautiful country. For 10 days we have ventured from the French speaking Geneva region, into the German-Swiss Berner Oberland and Valais regions of the Alps, then south to the warmer Mediterranean climes of Italian speaking Ticino province.

You get an idea of just how spectacular the Swiss landscape is from the views of our rooms at the amazing hotels we've been staying in and the scenic trains from region to region (with our Swiss passes, of course).

The pics in this blog are all taken of the hotels, or from the inside of our rooms looking out! Like anywhere in the world, careful choice of accommodations and rooms can be an integral part of the experience of any place; and here in Switzerland our hotels have been not just well located but they are palaces and villas of the old world restored with the finest amenities.

The Geneva Kempenski Hotel is right on the waterfront overlooking the highest fountain in the world just a short boat ride across from great walks through the old town. (Next time we'll be sure to plan time for the Patek Phillipe Watch Museum.) Our Swiss pass took us by rail along the lake to Lausanne where we hopped on a bus one block away from the Lausanne Palace and Spa, a classic building up on a hilltop at the edge of the old town where we walked and dined on cobblestone pedestrian streets, after sipping wine on our terrace overlooking the Berner Oberland Alps where we would soon be headed. Our last top in the Geneva Lake region was the other end of the lake in the well-known small city of Montreux where we stayed in the Fairmont Le Montreux Palace, in this case where our view of the lake and mountains is highlighted by a bottle of local wine on our small terrace.

On to Interlaken, the adventure capital of Switzerland located between lakes Thunersee and Brienzersee, we were hosted in the Jungfrau-Victoria Grand Hotel and Spa, two classic hotels restored as one replete with grand stair cases, Versailles ballroom and dining room, and the most grand of all was our view looking out at the Jungfrau--highest mountain in Europe on a clear 70 degree day! One evening we were invited to join the hotel's inaugural opening party of the new ground level terrace at the front of the hotel designed to bring the hotel and it's guests together as one with the local community. Never before have I found myself with processco in hand talking business with the GM of such a world-class grand hotel with paragliders flying all around in the sky over his head! Here I had the best deep tissue massage ever by "Magda" in their most beautiful of spas.

We then traveled by boat along Lake Brienzersee to the Brienz and a little further up the valley where we stayed in the 4* historic Parkhotel du Sauvage, a classic Art Nouveau hotel built in 1880 situated in the small tradition town of Meiringen further into the upper valley of Haslital, a lovely more offbeat part of the Bernese Oberland, and in this case our room overlooked the town rooftops to a wonderful view of a church steeple and waterfall lit for a few hours after dark.

A half day’s journey and four train changes later we arrived on the south side of the Alps in the Valais, a region more in the know among Swiss and other Europeans than Americans or other outsiders. The Landhaus Hotel is a more typical 3* Swiss mountain lodge without a large bathroom or too much space in the room but the warmth of the wooden building, our gracious host, the delicious fondue, and of course the mountain views of fresh late snowfall was all charming. More on the activities here in another blog entry, because this is the kind of off-beat, traditional culture and less-known hiking area that is the traditional natural and cultural landscape of Switzerland we seek to discover.

Another fun day of train travel with 5 change of trains, including the slow scenic “Tren Panoramico Vigezzo Vison” over the rugged passes of the southern Alps through wooded valleys leading us into the canton of Ticino. Hemmed in by the Alps to the north and bordered on almost all sides by Italy, Ticino is geographically, culturally and linguistically separate entity. Here our hotel, Villa Principe Leopoldo Hotel and Spa, located at the very top of the ’Collina d'Oro’ dominates Lugano and its lake, owes its name to Federico Leopoldo, who inhabited the property at the end of the 19th century as the family’s summer residence. Before being turned into a hotel, (1986), the princely abode witnessed one hundred years of history: illustrious figures coming from the nobility of half of Europe were welcomed here either as residents or as guests.